PHILEMON
UND BAUCIS – Joseph Haydn’s Marionette Opera “If I want to hear
good opera I must come to Eszterháza,” Maria Theresa
is supposed to have said, giving a somewhat misleading impression. In fact she
was there on only one occasion, for the first two days of September 1773. The large scale celebrations were written up
in local newspaper reports. On the first
day there was a banquet (at which three gamebirds
killed by Haydn with one shot were on the Empress’s plate), the inspection of the Park, a performance
of Haydn’s opera L’infedeltŕ delusa in the
opera house, followed by a fancy-dress ball which lasted till dawn. During an intermission in the ball the Prince
showed the imperial party his new Chinese Pleasurehouse. The walls were covered with mirrors which
reflected the light of innumerable Chinese lanterns and candles. Haydn and the orchestra played a symphony and
other works. The main ball took place in
a 130 foot long Chinese gallery adjoining the opera house. Eleven chandeliers and 600 candles
illuminated the room and the musicians were dressed in Chinese costume. It was the stove in this room that exploded
in 1779 causing the fire that completely destroyed the first opera house and,
far worse, all the music and parts of the operas written to date with the
exception of the scores that Haydn had fortuitously taken to his living
quarters some half mile away (still preserved). The next
evening’s entertainment started with Haydn’s specially composed marionette
opera Philemon und Baucis, or Jupiter’s
journey to Earth. This could well have been the official opening of the
marionette theatre, which, unlike the rebuilt opera house and the Chinese Pleasurehouse, still can be seen, although now used for
agricultural purposes. The auditorium
was flanked on both sides by caves domed with rockery and sea shells in the
fashionable rocaille
style. Some of the caves were embellished with fresco paintings, others with
miniature fountains. The puppet
opera was followed by a festive supper after which the Prince led the Imperial
party through an avenue illuminated with coloured Chinese lanterns to the site
of a spectacular firework display. Once seated the Empress lit the first fuse. After the fireworks an outdoor ball took
place in a specially prepared arena, lit by more than 20,000 Chinese lanterns
and with over a thousand young peasants performing local dances. The opera was
repeated at Eszterháza in 1776, presumably with a
less elaborate final tableau, and was then available as two pieces, the prologue
on The tale of
Philemon and Baucis appears in Book 8 of Ovid’s Metamorphoses. Two tree trunks
grow together in a walled enclosure on a hilltop, surrounded by a swamp, in |
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